One house tells an 18th-century royal story. The other sells itself on performance and a dash of provocation. Here is how to choose.
Parfums de Marly and Initio Parfums Privés both occupy the confident, high-impact end of niche perfume, and both are popular with shoppers who want fragrances people notice. Their identities are very different, though. This guide compares their origins, style and range, and helps you decide where to begin. Esscentum stocks both, with eight Parfums de Marly products and seven Initio products, so each is easy to scan in one sitting. Confirm current pricing, notes and availability on the Parfums de Marly and Initio Parfums Privés collection pages rather than treating anything here as fixed.
At a Glance
Parfums de Marly
Initio Parfums Privés
Origin
Paris
Sources differ: described as Parisian or Dubai-based
Founded
2009, by Julien Sprecher
2015
Theme
The 18th-century French court, the Château de Marly and horses
Perfume as an emotional and aphrodisiac force, with science and art combined
Concentration
Eau de parfum, per retailers
Mostly eau de parfum, with some extraits
Gender
Varies by release
Marketed as unisex
Esscentum range
8 fragrances
7 fragrances
Origins and Philosophy
Parfums de Marly was founded in Paris in 2009 by Julien Sprecher. Its name comes from the Château de Marly, a royal retreat that the house uses as shorthand for the lavish, festive side of the 18th-century French court. Horses are part of that story: retailer accounts cite the royal passion for breeding them, and the house's bottles carry a design with two horses.
Initio went to market in 2015 and presents perfume as something close to a ritual. The name is a Latin word that retailers describe as meaning both "from the beginning" and "to initiate," and the house describes fragrance as having ancient roots in magic and purification. Parfumo says the brand launched seven unisex fragrances after years of research, and that its perfumers work closely with chemists. Sources disagree on where Initio is based. Some retailers call it Parisian, while Parfumo describes it as Dubai-based. A creative director known as Nadia leads it, and retailers say she has kept her background private.
Scent Style
Parfums de Marly is known for warm, vanilla-led richness. Retailer coverage names Layton, Herod, Delina and Pegasus as the signatures and notes that Layton, Pegasus and Delina share a warm vanilla heart. Of the fragrances Esscentum stocks, Pegasus is described as a composition of fruits, spices and woody notes, and Haltane as starting with a herbal top note before developing into a soft composition with gourmand nuances.
Initio's best-known work is bolder and more explicitly seductive. Oud for Greatness, the house's flagship, is described by a French retailer as saffron and nutmeg over a polished agarwood heart with lavender, patchouli and musk, opulent and dark with huge projection. Side Effect is described as saffron, rum and tobacco wrapped in vanilla and cinnamon, warm and heady for cold-weather evenings. Blessed Baraka is listed as boozy woody amber with creamy sandalwood, and Paragon as aromatic herbs and spiced plum grounded by resins. The pattern is rich, noticeable and often boozy or smoky. We couldn't source notes for Can't Get Enough, Power Self or Oud for Greatness Neo, so check their product pages.
Concentration and Performance
Retailers list all eight Parfums de Marly products as eau de parfum. Initio mixes concentrations: Luckyscent lists Oud for Greatness, Side Effect, Blessed Baraka and Can't Get Enough as eau de parfum, and Paragon and Power Self as extrait de parfum, which is generally more concentrated. Initio is marketed on performance, and the French retailer describes Oud for Greatness as having huge projection, but that's a retailer's claim and individual experience varies, so treat product pages as the guide. Compare current prices on the listings, since niche pricing isn't standardized.
Which One Suits You?
Choose Parfums de Marly if
You like warm, vanilla-led richness with a story rooted in French history.
You respond to heritage branding and a recognizable bottle.
You prefer a house whose signature names are widely discussed.
Choose Initio if
You want a bold, oud-, rum- or tobacco-forward statement.
You like the idea of high performance and some extrait options.
You prefer a unisex house with a more provocative personality.
Where to Start With Each
These picks are confirmed as listed in Esscentum's catalog, but check current stock before ordering.
Parfums de Marly: Pegasus, one of the house's four best-known names; Herod, another of them; and Haltane if you prefer a herbal, gourmand direction. See our Parfums de Marly guide.
Initio: Oud for Greatness, the flagship (Oud for Greatness Neo is a separate listing, so check how it differs); Side Effect for a spiced rum and tobacco warmth; and Blessed Baraka for boozy woody amber.
Not a verdict: These houses suit different moods. Parfums de Marly leans toward warm elegance, Initio toward drama. If you can, sample one or two from each before committing to a full bottle.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Initio better than Parfums de Marly?
Neither is better in general. Parfums de Marly suits shoppers who want warm, heritage-driven richness, while Initio suits those who want bolder, performance-led fragrances.
Where is Initio from?
Sources differ. Some retailers describe it as a Parisian house and others as Dubai-based. It launched in 2015.
Is Initio unisex?
Yes, the house markets its fragrances as unisex, though retailers note that some lean more masculine or feminine in feel.
Where can I buy Parfums de Marly and Initio in Lebanon?
Both are available online through Esscentum's dedicated collections. Always verify current stock and pricing on the product page before ordering.
Compare both houses side by side.
Shop Parfums de Marly Shop Initio
It was the house's first fragrance, it remains its most discussed, and it comes in more versions than most shoppers realize.
Aqua Universalis is the fragrance most people mean when they say they want something "clean" from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. It launched in 2009, the year the house was born, and it still defines the Aqua family. But the name now covers more than one product, and the differences matter before you order. This guide explains what Aqua Universalis is, what it smells like, and how its versions compare. For the house's background, see our Maison Francis Kurkdjian guide. Check the collection page for what's currently available, and confirm pricing and notes on each product page rather than treating anything here as fixed.
The Idea Behind It
Francis Kurkdjian has said he created the Aqua collection to reinterpret and modernise the eau de Cologne while naturally magnifying its signature. Aqua Universalis was the first of the collection, captured in his words as the sensation of a crystal-clear, luminous freshness. In interviews about the later Cologne Forte range, he traces the idea back to this fragrance, launched when the house was founded in 2009. The house is the creation of Kurkdjian and Marc Chaya, and Aqua Universalis is the scent that set its tone.
How It Smells?
Retailers consistently describe Aqua Universalis as a musky citrus: bergamot and lemon on top, white flowers such as lily of the valley and mock orange, and a soft base of musk. One retailer compares it to a perfectly cut white blouse, clean and timeless. It's marketed as unisex. The brand's own name for the original is eau de toilette, which is a lighter concentration than eau de parfum, and that shows in the style: it's about transparency rather than weight.
Why It's Called a Signature
It's the house's origin point. It launched with the house in 2009 and anchors the Aqua family.
It has an award. Wikipedia records that it won Cosmétique Magazine's best niche unisex perfume award in 2010.
It sells as a line. One retail review calls the Aqua range the house's best-selling unisex line, which is a retailer's observation, not Lebanese sales data.
It's easy to wear. Its clean, citrus-and-musk character suits a wide range of occasions, which is a common reason people choose it as their first niche purchase.
The Versions, Explained
This is where shoppers get confused. A Basenotes thread asks how to choose between the eau de toilette, the Forte and the Cologne Forte, which says a lot. Here is how the listings are laid out.
Version
What to know
Aqua Universalis (2009)
The original eau de toilette. Retailers list bergamot, lemon, lily of the valley, mock orange and musk. One comparison site estimates short wear, so it's a light, close-to-skin scent.
Aqua Universalis Forte (2011)
An eau de parfum variation launched in 2011, according to Now Smell This. This is a separate, earlier product from the one below, and it is not currently listed at Esscentum.
Aqua Universalis Cologne Forte (2021)
An eau de parfum from the Cologne Forte collection. Kurkdjian describes the range as modern, long-lasting colognes. Nordstrom and Les Senteurs list Italian bergamot, Bulgarian rose, a white floral accord of mock orange and sweet pea, and white musk.
Esscentum lists the original and the Cologne Forte. If you're comparing, check the product pages for the concentration and notes, since sites that list "Forte" and "Cologne Forte" often mix them up.
Which Should You Choose?
The original: if you want the lightest, brightest version and don't mind reapplying.
Cologne Forte: if you like the idea of Aqua Universalis but want a longer-lasting eau de parfum with a hint of rose.
Neither feels right? The same Aqua family includes Aqua Vitae, which Esscentum also lists in both versions. A retailer lists the Cologne Forte version with Italian bergamot and mandarin, a solar floral accord and a musky base.
Try before you commit: Because the versions are subtle, a small size is a good way to choose. Esscentum has Discovery sets, so check whether the one you want is offered that way.
Frequently Asked Questions
When did Aqua Universalis launch?
In 2009, the year Maison Francis Kurkdjian was founded. It was the first fragrance in the Aqua collection.
Is Aqua Universalis unisex?
Yes, retailers list it as unisex, and the house markets the Aqua range as universal.
What is the difference between Aqua Universalis and Cologne Forte?
The original is an eau de toilette. Cologne Forte is an eau de parfum from the 2021 collection, which Kurkdjian describes as modern and long-lasting, and it lists rose alongside the white florals.
Where can I buy Maison Francis Kurkdjian in Lebanon?
It's available online through Esscentum's dedicated collection. Always verify current stock and pricing on the product page before ordering.
Explore Aqua Universalis and the rest of the Aqua family.
Browse the Maison Francis Kurkdjian Collection
No results found for "eau-de-parfum". Check the spelling or rephrase your query.
The winter draw
One spin, for the season.
Three of a kind wins 10% off. No purchase needed.
Three of a kind
Tap the code to copy it. Use it at checkout.
So close
Not this time. A new spin opens with the next issue.